Tuesday, June 20, 2023

Thinking Inside the Box: The Belay Box

"Belay box" is not a real term. It's an imaginary demarkation in which I allow myself to step back, forward, or sideways. I should call it "belay sphere" but it sounds too New Age or esotheric. So we'll call it a "belay box."

A Kleimheist is an important friend you rarely get to see. Photo by Darren.

Establish your belay box

These are my general categories when establishing my belay box:

  • a step or two away from the rock
  • aligned to the bolt
  • clear view of the climber
  • out of line of debris or a climber's fall trajectory

I also pay attention to any edge that I could step out of or any rock (or roots or lego) that I can trip on.

When belaying on steep slopes or ledges, I use a personal anchor system to keep me inside the box.

Shepherding as a belayer

"Shepherding" is a term that I've made up just now. It can refer to other people in the crag or the rope.

Shepherding the rope means I move the rope out of a climber's way. I make sure that it's easy for them to step over a rope if needed or that the rope is out of the way of a hold (usually a foothold).

Shepherding other people in a crag just means that I don't let people pass in front of me when I belay. It seems that many people are unaware of their space or the dangers of passing someone who is lead belaying.

I usually shepherd people by stepping closer to the rock to make it less desirable to pass in front of me.

I don't feel comfortable either when someone stands too close to me when I belay. When someone encroaches in my belay box, I lead with my back towards them -- pretending that I didn't see them as a move backward.

People are always kind enough to make space.

Thank you for reading.

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