Friday, March 8, 2024

How to Give Verbal Encouragement as a Belayer

In the face of ambiguity, refuse the temptation to guess

-The Zen of Python

This is something that took me a while to learn, partly because no one taught it to me. Partly because I'm a slow learner:

How to give the right amount of verbal encouragement to a climber. To find out, just ask.

Some prefer being constantly reminded that someone is holding the rope for them. You can barrage them with "allez" and "gamba" and "venga vicho" like you're giving them an unrestrained IV drip rate.

Others may get distracted by the slew of words, like they're trying to read Dostoevsky and you're the neighbor hammering the drywall to put up a frame of gambling dogs.

Most people will say they don't care either way. Just ask anyway.

People appreciate when you ask.

One of my most memorable belay moments was when a climber sent her project in the dihedral wall in Danao. All the climbers were in another area. Between the partner check and the send, we didn't exchange a single word.

It reminded me of being in high school. During morning breaks, I'd go to the library when no one else would go. The only sound was of hardbounds being lifted on and off the shelves. The sound of quickdraws and leaves swaying—and the silence.

Belayers have no place in history.

But we still do our best so our climbers don't end up in the obituary.

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