- This is NOT an instructional post. You will die.
It's not equalized. If set up on two bolts, it violates the non-extending principle.
- I read about a fatal accident that happened recently because of a failed single-strand (Reepschnur) rappel. This post is not a speculation on the incident. It's my personal reflection on the rappel systems that I use (because writing is a form of introspection).
- The chain links and bolts that I use to rappel off of are much narrower than the ring in the photos.
- I don't recommend a single-strand rappel if you've only learned about it from YouTube or Wikihow. Please respect gravity.
- You may see a non-locking carabiner in the photos. Let's pretend it's a locking carabiner.
I've been rappeling quite a bit lately because some of the routes in Bukidnon don't have rings or chain links at the top. Rapping down with a GriGri is my second favorite method of rappelling .
Setup 1:
This is the setup that I use most frequently. It strikes a good balance between material, safety, and efficiency. The carabiner blocks the rope and there's a BFK to act as a backup blocker.
Is it SERENE? Probably not.
It's not equalized. If set up on two bolts, it violates the non-extending principle.
Setup 2:
It's almost the as the first setup but the carabiner clipped to the live end of the rope makes it a close system.
Setup 3:
This setup uses a knot to close the system. It's the same as the second setup, minus the first blocking carabiner.
Being a closed system, the rope cannot slide off of the anchor if you load it on the strand that's supposed to take your weight. This brings us to the biggest risk of a single-rope rappel.
Quick sidenote: I don't like this configuration because one time I rapped off of it and the pull end went through the ring. I had to climb back up again because I couldn't pull the rope down. Some Random Thoughts
Just as it's so easy to confuse left and right, it's so easy to mix up the load and pull ends on a Reepschnur system. That's why I always do a load test before committing to my rappel system.
The biggest risks for more experienced climbers are complacency and absent-mindedness. I guard myself against those.
I also tell myself that I'm not special--that any "stupid" mistake that others do, I can do, too.
I've been taught to load test a rappel system before disconnecting my PAS. Someone once told me that when building anchors, you should always add before you subtract.
Climbing is not worth dying for. I've bailed many times on routes that I found too risky and will bail many times over.
I will also happily admit if the technical requirements of a task are way beyond my skills.
PS: My favorite configuration is an extended double-strand rappel with a friction hitch clipped to my belay loop: it's clean, secure, and comfortable (because the extension puts you in a more upright position).
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