Friday, March 8, 2024

How to Give Verbal Encouragement as a Belayer

In the face of ambiguity, refuse the temptation to guess

-The Zen of Python

This is something that took me a while to learn, partly because no one taught it to me. Partly because I'm a slow learner:

How to give the right amount of verbal encouragement to a climber. To find out, just ask.

Some prefer being constantly reminded that someone is holding the rope for them. You can barrage them with "allez" and "gamba" and "venga vicho" like you're giving them an unrestrained IV drip rate.

Others may get distracted by the slew of words, like they're trying to read Dostoevsky and you're the neighbor hammering the drywall to put up a frame of gambling dogs.

Most people will say they don't care either way. Just ask anyway.

People appreciate when you ask.

One of my most memorable belay moments was when a climber sent her project in the dihedral wall in Danao. All the climbers were in another area. Between the partner check and the send, we didn't exchange a single word.

It reminded me of being in high school. During morning breaks, I'd go to the library when no one else would go. The only sound was of hardbounds being lifted on and off the shelves. The sound of quickdraws and leaves swaying—and the silence.

Belayers have no place in history.

But we still do our best so our climbers don't end up in the obituary.

Wednesday, August 30, 2023

Let's Lie About Our Sends

Honesty is always assumed. Whenever someone says they have sent their project, the first reaction is always a hearty congratulation. Nobody would even bother to ask for proof.

Recent instances in our gym made me wonder if this tradition will continue. A relatively new climber has more than once claimed a send, although in one instance he stepped on an off-route foothold; and in another he pushed off of the mat in the third move of a boulder problem.

I wonder if this is an isolated instance or if this is someting we'll see more of as climbing grows in the Philippines.

I like the concept of trust. In the homestay where we go to climb, the beers are left in the open for grabs. On checking out, we just tell the owner how many beers we drank and she never bothers to verify.

Maybe we can keep something like that going.

Sunday, August 6, 2023

Ilog, Negros Occidental | Sports Climbing Potential

Ilog is less than three hours by bus from Bacolod City.

The crag is about 5km from the highway. The terrain to the crag is unpaved but flat. Nothing technical.

The approach to the crag is between a hut and a small field of sugar cane. It's easy to ask for directions because there are houses in the area.

There are potential for routes from 5a to high sevens. There's also a possible multi-pitch.

Some of the lines are around 12 meters long while there's a long stretch of white rock about 18 meters high (possibly taller).

The belay area of the headwall is clear but the path going there is overgrown. It's better to bring one of those snippy-snappy gardening tools.

The path is also covered with fallen trees. Please be aware that the trunks can crumble under human weight.

There's a west-facing crag that I didn't have a change to explore. These photos are from the part of the crag that faces north.

Tuesday, August 1, 2023

There's No Layer Like a Belayer

When I'm up on a climb wondering if I could trust my foothold, I don't want to have to wonder if I could trust my belayer.

Emotional safety is rarely talked about in climbing. It's time we discuss what we can do to make climbing more emotionally fun.

Preface: Belaying is an activity in itself. It's not that thing you do because others did it for you.

Preface again: If these statements were universal truths, they'd be carved in stone. It's all opinion but maybe you should consider them.

  • Don't distract belayers. Whatever you want to ask them, it can wait. A line usually takes less than 20 minutes to climb. We have a weekend to spare. Your chat can wait.
  • Please avoid talking when belaying. It can wait.
  • Please take falls. A chatty belayer might be a bored belayer. It's not fun to belay someone who won't commit to a gnarly move.
  • Check in on your belayer. Say thank you after a catch or check if they are still okay to belay.
  • Normalize switching belays. 40 minutes of standing and pulling rope is not fun.
  • Gift a Beer on Your Send. Belaying might be a labor of love but it's still labor. We all know that beer is a working person's favorite drink.
Bal Marsius